Housetraining Essentials

A Step By Step Guide To Housetraining Your New Puppy or Dog

by Julie A Cantrell, BSc, CDBC, CPDT

This article discusses basic housetraining; that is, establishing an acceptable bathroom area for a new puppy or older dog.

Submissive Urination and Marking

There are two other categories that often are lumped together with housetraining: submissive urination and marking. Submissive urination refers to urination that occurs when your puppy is very excited (most often during greetings) or intimidated. Submissive urination is not a housetraining or discipline problem. If your pup is older than four months old, and has an ongoing problem with submissive urination, it's recommended that you talk to your veterinarian, or call your local dog behavior consultant, to get help with this very common problem.

Marking is typically a urination problem, but can include defecation as well. Both male and female dogs may "mark their territory". However, often a dog who appears to have a marking problem is actually a dog who has never been completely housetrained. In that case, you may find that following the instructions in this handout will resolve the problem. If your dog has an indoor marking problem that doesn't improve with the training discussed here, talk with your veterinarian or your local dog behavior consultant to discuss the problem.

Health and Diet

If your puppy or dog is having ongoing difficulty with his housetraining, it's always wise to make sure there are no medical problems complicating issues. Housetraining can easily be set back by any type of urinary tract infection or intestinal upset. Some medications can also interfere with the process. Your veterinarian can help you determine if there is a problem in this area. Diet can also be a very important consideration. Certain rich foods can cause increased drinking and urination. Foods with lots of filler can cause large, loose stools. Either can make it much more difficult for your pup to "hold it".

Introduction

The most important ingredient in the housetraining recipe is you. Housetraining, like all training, is a process of education. During this process, it's helpful to remember that your puppy wasn't born knowing know that it is wrong for him to use your floor as a bathroom. It's not genetically pre-programmed into him, and this is not something he learned from his mother. It's your job to help him understand this very human concept. Since you don't speak "canine", and he doesn't speak "human", this process can take a little extra patience and understanding. But a little attention to detail now can pay off with big rewards in the long run.

With commitment and pre-planning, you can expect housetraining to take about two weeks to accomplish. If your puppy or dog has already learned to have accidents in the house, it'll take longer - generally you can expect a new and reliable habit to take at least six weeks to establish. When you are housetraining, you are essentially establishing a habit in your pup. The American Heritage dictionary defines a habit as "a recurrent, often unconscious pattern of behavior that is acquired through frequent repetition". This pattern of behavior is accomplished by creating, and sticking to, a schedule for your pup's food and trips outside; teaching the desired behavior, and preventing accidents until the proper habit is firmly established.

For the puppy or dog in housetraining, there is no substitute for diligent supervision. Simply put, if you always know where your pup is, and what he is up to, you'll be able to catch him before he makes a housetraining mistake.

Housetraining is not a particularly difficult process, but it does take time and some diligence on your part. Let's get started with learning the details.

First, Create a Schedule

Feeding Schedule - Your pup's feeding schedule should be consistent until his housetraining is reliable. The number of times fed, the time of day fed, and the amounts should vary as little as possible. It's also important to keep the dog food brand and formula consistent. Since sudden changes can create digestive upsets that wreak havoc with housetraining, this is not the time to be adding variety to your pup's diet.

How Many Meals Per Day? One of the best methods of determining how many meals to feed per day is to go by your pup's own body rhythms. The rule of thumb is to feed as many meals per day as your pup has bowel movements. As your pup matures, the number of bowel movements will reduce. Each time it does, reduce the number of feedings accordingly.

No Free Feeding - If you are planning to feed "free choice" meals to your pup, do not do so until your pup is thoroughly and reliably housetrained. A pup that eats randomly, here and there throughout the day, will need to go to the bathroom randomly, here and there throughout the day. This will make it much harder to predict when your pup needs to relieve himself! Make it easy on yourself and your pup; feed at regular, predictable mealtimes.

Exercise Schedule - That is, when you walk your pup out to relieve himself - must also be as consistent and predictable as possible, at least until housetraining is reliable. You will want to create a schedule that is convenient for you, one you'll be able to stick to. Keep in mind that while most dogs and puppies will be able to "hold it" for eight hours during the night within two to three days of coming home, daytime is an active time, and therefore a time of increased elimination. In general, even a newly adopted 8 week old pup, provided he is in good health, can go at least 2 daytime hours between trips outside. As your pup matures, and he learns to go only outside, that time will lengthen. Bedtimes and waking-up times should be part of your pup's schedule. Housetraining will proceed most rapidly if you stick to these times as closely as possible. Be sure to schedule nap times as well; young dogs need lots of these! Your pup will need to be taken out after naps, and immediately following each meal. Also, any kind of emotional stimulation (for example, an exuberant play session, or a sudden surprise or fright) may cause your pup to need to eliminate, so take him out!

Teach the Desired Behavior

Pick an Exercise Command - You may not initially see the importance of a command (or "cue") for going to the bathroom. However, think about how helpful it would be to be able to have your pup "go" when asked, for instance if you have to leave for work early, and won't be able to take him out at his regular time, or if you would like to be sure he goes before you take him inside at your friend's home, or if you are stopping at a rest stop on a long trip, and it would be so very handy if your pup would go now. Pick a word or phrase (such as "hurry up", "go potty", "do your business", etc.) and use it consistently, and soon you can have a pup who can "do it on command"!

Where's A Pup To Go? There is no particular right or wrong place to teach your pup to use as his bathroom. It simply depends on what is convenient for you. Bathroom areas can be as general as anywhere outdoors, or as specific as a certain corner of your yard. You must have a clear and realistic idea of what the area is - and the time you wish to put into the process - before you start teaching your pup.

Take Your Pup Out - When you take your pup outside to relieve himself, keep in mind that a bathroom break is just that. This isn't the time to play with your dog. Doing so may only confuse him as to why he is outside. Take your pup out to the chosen bathroom area and wait while he investigates the area to find the right spot. Don't try to talk him into going; this will likely only distract him. (Three to five minutes is a reasonable length of time to give your pup on these trips out.)

When He Starts To Go - Use quiet, gentle verbal praise while your pup's in the process of going. Include the cue you have chosen for this: e.g. "Good Potty". When he is finished, it's fine to praise more enthusiastically, without risking distracting him from finishing his business. While it's not absolutely necessary, many owners find that a small treat given just after performing his duties outside can speed up the pup's understanding of the housetraining process.

If He Doesn't Go - It is very important that, if your pup does not relieve himself when outside (when you think there was a pretty good chance he needed to go) you do not allow him free access to the house. If he doesn't go while you are out, return him to the house, but confine him for another 15-30 minutes before you try again. Many pups will become distracted by the smells, sights, and sounds of outside, only to remember that they need to go once back inside! This mistake will quickly turn into a habit if not prevented.

Learn Your Pup's Habits - Every dog is different, and each will have his own bathroom habits you'll need to learn. Some dogs need to "potty" two or three times per outing. Urination is often followed by a bowel movement, sometimes visa versa. While you become familiar with your pup's habits, stick to your schedule, taking him out as soon as he wakes up, after meals and immediately following all play sessions.

Prevent Accidents Until Housetraining is a Habit

When You Can't Completely Supervise - Lives are busy, and naturally it simply will not be possible for you to watch your puppy 24 hours a day until he is reliably housetrained. However, if you let your guard down and let him wander unsupervised, he will most certainly have accidents in the house - and that good housetraining habit will take much longer to establish. So what's a new puppy owner to do? Be prepared! Develop a system of other options to keep those accidents from happening, even when you might be busy or preoccupied, and not able to keep an "eagle eye" on your puppy.

Here are some ideas for keeping your pup from getting into trouble when you aren't able to watch him closely:

Put the pup on a leash, and hook the leash handle around a doorknob in the room you're in. This is a good option if you are staying near your pup, so you can be sure the pup doesn't chew his leash, or get tangled or caught up in it.

Put him on leash, and attach him to you (for instance, you can hook the leash to your belt). This is a good option if you will be moving from room to room. This is also a great way to teach yourself to recognize your pup's signals that he needs to go out.

Place your pup in a pen or enclosed area that is small enough that he won't want to soil it. Puppies and dogs have a natural instinct to have separate bathroom and living/sleeping areas. If the area is too small for both, they will avoid using it as a bathroom spot.

If you have a small pup, you can carry him in your arms, or in a sling-type carrier (they make these for dogs, very similar to the ones people use for babies).

You can put the pup in his crate for a nap.

Or, you can put your pup in a safe, secure, outdoor enclosure.

If you'll be keeping your pup in one spot for awhile, it's a good idea to give him some toys or chewies to occupy himself with, so he thinks of these times as something positive, and learns to relax and settle when he doesn't have your complete attention.

Home Alone - When you're not home, your pup must be confined in some way so that he's not able to have accidents in the house. If your pup is not able to be outside in a safe, secure area while you're gone, you will need to provide an indoor place for him to be. This does not need to be huge. In fact, a smaller area, with all chewable temptations removed, is preferable. You can use a utility room, a small bathroom, a section of your kitchen closed off with baby gates, or a fenced-off corner of your garage or basement. (You may want to put down some papers or housetraining pads for your pup to use if he needs to.) A crate can be used if you are not gone for extended periods of time. Remember this rule: most puppies can be expected to be hold it for as many hours as they are months old, up to 7-8 hours. If you have a toy breed, be aware that tiny dogs can be an exception to this rule, as their metabolisms are faster, and accordingly they will need to eliminate more frequently than a larger breed dog.

If you're gone for longer periods than your pup can handle at his age, please consider finding a person to come in and give the pup a drink and a chance to relieve himself at some mid-point during the day. This could be a friend or relative, a responsible neighborhood teen looking to make a few extra dollars, or a professional pet sitter.

When you do leave your pup alone, be sure to provide some safe chew toys for entertainment, but do not leave food and water down, and try not to fill his stomach with treats or biscuits just before you leave.

Overnight - Most pups can learn to go overnight without accidents quite quickly, usually within days of being home. This is provided (you guessed it!) that you prevent accidents from happening at this time. Where should your pup be overnight, to help prevent accidents?

In the bedroom with you. Shut the bedroom door, or use a baby gate, to keep him from wandering if he wakes up in the night. If he does wake up and needs to go out, you are more likely to hear him moving around if he is confined in the room with you. If your pup is small, and the bedroom is large, you may want to tether him: have him on a 4-6 foot leash, and attach that leash to the foot of your bed, near a dog bed or blanket he can lie on. Tethering will prevent him from using a far corner of the room as a bathroom spot.

In his crate. If you do not have to use the crate to confine your pup for extended hours during the day, then a crate is a great place to teach your pup to sleep at night. While you can place the crate anywhere convenient to you, the best place to place the crate is right next to your bed, where you can hear him if he must go during the night. Being in the bedroom while you are sleeping also helps the pup associate nighttime with sleeping. (It is much easier for a pup or dog sleeping in the bedroom with you to get on your waking/sleeping schedule.)

Confined in another, familiar, area of the house. Before dog crates came into popular use, probably the most traditional place to have a dog sleep at night was on his bed in the kitchen. If you are able to use baby gates to enclose your pup in the kitchen (or a part of it), this is a nice option for most people. You can put down papers or housetraining pads in one corner of the room until your pup is capable of holding it overnight; if there is an accident, the floors are easily cleaned. And because this room is a high-traffic area in most homes, your pup will not feel as isolated as he might if shut in some out of the way part of the house.

About Crates

A dog crate (also known as a kennel, carrier, or simply a cage) is one of the greatest convenience items you can buy to help in the housetraining of your pup. Dogs are by nature "denning" animals: they prefer to seek out quiet, cozy places to rest. A crate acts as an indoor den - think of it as your pup's very own bedroom inside your home. Properly introduced to a crate, most dogs enjoy having their own private spot; many nap in it on their own when they have a choice of spots to sleep, and even "send themselves to bed" at night. Another part of the denning instinct is a strong innate desire to keep the den clean. Unless a pup has learned otherwise, he will only use it as a bathroom if given no other choice. So, a crate is one method of confinement that also helps your pup learn to "hold it" for reasonable periods of time while you train him to a convenient exercise schedule.

In addition to housetraining, a crate has lots of other everyday uses. It can be your pup's quiet, safe spot in the house, away from children, other pets, and puppy temptations. A crate is an excellent way to transport your pup in the car, keeping him protected from sudden stops. And if your dog needs to stay at the veterinary hospital or boarding kennel, there is a good chance he will spend some time in a crate - so it's best to get him used to it now, so he can be comfortable and relaxed later.

While crate training is a wonderful tool for the new puppy or dog owner, just like any tool it can be improperly used. Your pup's crate should be his safe spot, and should never be used for punishment. The crate is a training aid, and by itself won't replace the need for supervision, scheduling, and teaching house cleanliness and manners. All dogs - and particularly growing puppies - need to run, play, and stretch their legs frequently in order to develop properly both physically and emotionally. The crate should never be used to such an extent that your puppy or dog is unable to get the exercise and companionship he needs. Keep in mind that the crate is only one tool. Use it with common sense, and in conjunction with other methods of confinement and supervision, and you will find it an excellent and useful part of your housetraining program.

Sometimes Accidents Will Happen

If You Catch Him in the Act - If your pup starts to relieve himself indoors, immediately tell him "NO!" in a firm, low voice, and immediately take him out to his bathroom area. It is not necessary to yell at the pup, chase him, or hit him! The idea is to interrupt him, so that you can get him out to his bathroom area, show him the correct place to go, and praise him for using it.

Cleaning the Accident - Once you are back inside with your pup, put him away so you can clean up any accident he had before you interrupted him. Do not clean the accident in front of the dog: there is some evidence that letting your dog watch you clean up his messes actually slows the housetraining process. To completely remove all traces, it is extremely important to use an odor neutralizer or an odor-killing product, not just soap and water. (You can find these products at your pet supply store or veterinarian's office.) A dog's sense of smell is almost unimaginably better than ours. It won't matter if it smells clean to you - if it smells like a bathroom area to your pup, he will keep treating that area as a bathroom.

If You Find A Mess Later - First, keep in mind who is the teacher, and who is the student! Remember, a pup who is still in housetraining should not have been left unsupervised. You will want to clean the accident as described above. However, if you feel you must do something more, you can - before cleaning the mess - give the accident "what for". Go to the area, and let your pup watch you as you scold the accident (do NOT scold your puppy!) Take some tissue and blot up a bit of the urine, or pick up some of the stool, and take it and the pup outside, to the pup's bathroom area. Praise the mess for being in the right spot. Leave it there until the next time your pup is taken out. That's it! Now you have shown your pup where you do and don't like to find messes, without any of the behavioral side-effects of punishing your pup for his mistake.

Please note that it is NEVER recommended that you yell at the pup, hit him in any way, or "rub his nose in it". None of these methods will teach your pup how to avoid having accidents in the house. They WILL teach your pup that you are an unpredictable teacher, and he will quickly make the association that if you and the mess are in the same room, trouble is on the way. This association, and not spite, or even an understanding of doing something wrong, is the source of the "guilty look" some dogs will have when owners find an accident some time after it's happened.

You're Almost There

Okay, your new dog or puppy is on a consistent feeding and exercise schedule, and you've been diligent about preventing accidents in the house. His bathroom habits are becoming predictable, and you are learning to recognize the ways he "tells" you he needs to go out. Congratulations - you're almost there! Here are some final tips to help your puppy-in-training graduate to "reliably housetrained".

Adjust Your Schedule - Make note of when your pup relieves himself when he is taken out on his scheduled bathroom breaks. Begin to eliminate those breaks during which he never relieves himself. As your pup matures, keep making note of his habits, and adjusting his exercise schedule accordingly.

Give More Freedom - It's important to stay vigilant with your supervision, but now is the time to begin giving your pup some more freedom in the house. If you are sure your pup has definitely done his business outside, allow him a safe amount of time to explore the house without you on his heels. This is important to teach your pup that cleanness in the house is not something practiced only when you are in sight.

If Your Pup Was Outside Alone - Don't assume he relieved himself just because he was outside. Puppies, even grown dogs, get distracted by the sights and sounds of the outdoors, and sometimes forget to go! If you didn't actually see him go, be careful to supervise when he comes inside, watching for any telltale signs (circling, sniffing, etc) that he may still need to relieve himself.